
From roughly May to November, flowering is continuous and colonies build fast. This is the productive half of the year and also the half that needs the least intervention — provided two physical problems are solved first.
Water pooling under the stand brings damp, termites and mould. Choose higher ground or raise the stand at least forty centimetres, and make sure water drains away after heavy rain. Check this after the first big storm of the season rather than waiting to discover it later.
Water entering the entrance tube stops bees leaving and dampens the nest just inside. The roof should overhang the entrance by about twenty centimetres, and slope so runoff falls behind or to the side rather than directly in front.
Inspect and repair stands before the heavy rain arrives. Tap each leg — a hollow sound means termites have been at it. Replace now rather than after it collapses. This is also the window for splitting: colonies are building, and a new split has the whole wet season ahead of it to establish.
Almost nothing. Deflect rain, keep drainage clear, and watch entrances. Opening boxes during this period brings risk without return.
Harvest. Honey pots are fullest at the end of the wet months. Take only from colonies that have filled their box, take only honey pots, and leave the brood untouched.
Pale fuzzy patches on the underside of the lid are common after a wet season. Small amounts the colony cleans up itself. Mould spreading into the nest, with discoloured pollen pots and a musty smell, needs action: scrape the affected surfaces, discard mouldy pollen, improve drainage and ventilation. Do not wrap the box in a tarpaulin to keep rain out — that guarantees mould.
No. More opening means more heat loss and more moisture. Check the outside and the stand instead.
Early in the season is better than the middle. Both halves of a split need forage to recover, and they need weeks of settled weather.
Move the colony to a dry box early in the morning, keeping the brood the same way up, then fix whatever let the water in.
In the tropics, predators cause far more colony loss than disease. How to spot each early and what actually works.
Which months need work, which months need nothing, and when the main harvest falls.
No garden is not a barrier, but three problems have to be solved: heat, wind and forage.
Stingless bees forage within a few hundred metres, so your garden is nearly their whole diet. How to sequence flowering.
Heat and ants cause most colony losses in the dry months. What changes, and what to do about it.
A single-origin stingless bee honey from our own apiary in Trang Bang, Tay Ninh. Harvested and bottled by batch, traceable to the colony.