
Absconding is the beginner's greatest fear, and also the most preventable loss in the trade. Stingless bees do not leave on a whim; they leave when the cavity has stopped working for them.
A colony about to leave usually shows it for several days: bees clustering outside the entrance at midday, entrance traffic dropping sharply with no dead bees to explain it, and very few foragers returning with pollen — because brood rearing has stopped. Seeing these, check heat, ants and damp immediately.
Do not open the box; opening now accelerates the departure. Instead add shade, redo the ant defence, clear the ground around the stand, and leave it alone. If heat was the cause, the change shows within days.
Collect the remaining wax, pollen and honey within a few days before ants and termites arrive. Keep the wax to line a box for a new colony. And most importantly, find the cause before installing another colony in the same spot, or it will repeat.
Essentially never. They find a new cavity and stay.
There is no reliable way. Prevention is the only route.
Do not open at all in the first month after hiving. After that, every few months is enough for a settled colony.
When a colony is too weak to survive alone, merging saves what is left. Done wrong, the two fight and both are lost.
You do not need to see the queen to know she is there. Three indirect signs more reliable than searching the nest.
Selling colonies usually pays better than selling honey. What the growth rate really looks like, and what you owe the buyer.
Dividing the brood, making sure the daughter has a queen cell, and handling the first seven days. No special equipment needed.
Split at the right moment and you get two strong colonies. Split too early and you damage both.
A single-origin stingless bee honey from our own apiary in Trang Bang, Tay Ninh. Harvested and bottled by batch, traceable to the colony.